Mountain Biking the Peruvian Andes

While tourism in Huaraz and the surrounding mountains was more popular during the 80's and 90's, there are still a fair number of backpackers passing through hoping for adventure high above sea level. Most tourists do one or two day trips followed by a guided overnight trip to several lakes. Trying to veer a bit from the typical itinerary, I have spent the last three days mountain biking with a local Huarascan with over 25 years leading expeditions into the mountains.

On day one, three others and I went into the Cordillera Blanca, having been dropped off an hour's climb from a pass below the towering peaks.

From there we wound down single tracks, dirt roads and narrow walking paths to the city below passing lone adobe homes, herds of sheep and rural Andean life.

Day two, just Julio (my guide) and I ventured into the Cordilleda Negra for hours of riding through Andean back country. Small villages intercepted our descent down cow paths, dry creeks and pre-Inca trails, some of them thousands of years old. We would take a quick break riding a barely drive-able road before diving off onto one of Julio's secret shortcuts again.

This trail is the "break"? Okay...

Up on the hills, many locals still live and dress much the same as they have for centuries. Sharing the trails with us were shepherds driving along herds of sheep and cows; women dressed in traditional clothing, a sack of potatoes strewn over their back; pigs tied on a short rope, rolling in thick mud; and the occasional pack of aggressive stray dogs nipping at our heels.

A woman in traditional dress tends to her crops. The locals in the rural villages speak Quechua, a local dialect, completely different from Spanish.

A pre-ride portrait....

On day 3, we went back into the Cordillera Blanca with another small group of experienced riders. Following narrow, rocky single tracks, the descent into the valley was technically challenging and I finally had two long overdue wipeouts. The first one, I fell off the edge of the of trail down five foot drop off straight into a thorn bush. Julio spent five minutes pulling inch long spines from the seat of my pants!! I proceeded to launch over the handle bars about twenty minutes later on another steep downhill, somehow landing on my feet.

Julio and another rider changing one of three flat tires we had today.

Prepping for an ascent up into 13,000 foot plus altitude....

Though I don't think mountain biking will replace surfing for me, it has been an amazing and different way to get a glimpse into rural Andean villages, scope South America's highest peaks, and attempt to tame some scary, feral dogs.

Today's crew along with our all-knowing guide, Julio.

Confidence broken but physically unscathed after today's tumbles, I'll take a rest day in the local hot springs tomorrow before heading south to Lima.