Boat Life in Stockholm

From Bergen, Norway I hopped a short flight over to Stockholm, Sweden hoping for some relief from the world's most expensive country. Though still shockingly expensive, I learned that Sweden was about 25% cheaper than its western neighbor and that Norwegians often cross the border to shop the relatively good deals. Being alone for so long, especially after hours upon hours of cycling all day in total silence, it was awesome to have my great aunt meeting me to show me around Stockholm in her adopted hometown.

Walking from the bus station post flight, it took no time to come upon some of Stockholm's magnificent old architecture (I really enjoy brick buildings, with tall spires and oxidized metal roofs). The church below is the city's oldest and is on a small island that was once the heart of Stcokholm.

And below, the city hall where the Nobel Prize ceremony is held...

My aunt and uncle are super generous hosts, and booked me a room on board the Rygerfjord, a floating hostel in Stockholm's bay. The boat below is where I called home for four nights. Not a bad view!

Typically when one thinks of Sweden, they might think of IKEA, meatballs and tall blondes. While all those things may be stereotypical modern Sweden, I was surprised to learn that the country was actually once a strong military power and was a naval force to be reckoned with. 

With that newfound knowledge I visited the Vasa Museum, which ironically highlighted a beautiful war ship that sank on its maiden voyage from Stockholm in 1628, but was salvaged in great condition in the 1960s in a remarkable feat of engineering and beautifully restored for the public to enjoy.

Housed in a giant building, the ship was restored though the wood and masts are mostly original. The museum also highlighted life onboard such a war vessel, which between scurvy, malnutrition, corporal punishment from unquestionable captains, meager pay and months at sea looked pretty crumby...

Above, a ship in Stockholm's harbor, that to my untrained eye, looked much like the Vasa might have had it not sunk 300 feet from the dock...

The next day, my aunt and I booked a ferry to the outer islands of Stockholm's archipelago. With 23,000 islands scattered around Sweden's capital, it was clear the Norway did not steal all of Scandania's natural beauty. Our boat ride twisted and turned around small islands, many with houses and very small towns on them until we reached Sandhamm, one of the outermost islands and a popular tourist get-away during Sweden's two month long summer.

A small island en-route to Sandhamm....

The port at Sandhamm.... One of the interesting features about the ferry system is that it has a tentative schedule, only making stops at islands that have someone getting on or off. If someone is on an island and wants the ferry to stop, there is a flag system at the dock that the would-be passenger must use. A raised flag means the ferry should stop to get a passenger and no flag means the ferry can continue on, skipping the stop. Pretty cool and efficient!

Housing a population of about 2,500 people, the island was pretty quiet as many of the inhabitants leave after summer. This deserted beach was on the far side of the island, about a mile from the ferry landing.

My Aunt Betty leading the way along Sandhamm's only hiking trail...

No city tour would be complete without a stop at the pub. Incredibly, this place had three beers from San Diego microbreweries on tap!!

Somehow, I ended up without a photo of both my aunt and me, but as soon as I find one, I'll be sure to add it to the blog. Thanks to Aunt Betty for her incredible generosity and for being such a great host! And thanks to Uncle Tom, who was with us in spirit, for putting me up in the Rygerfjord and paying for my public transit pass! I had a blast and hope I can come back to Stockholm again some day when you're both there!!

From the Fjords to the Coast

After a couple of days in small town Fläm, it was time to continue the westward journey toward Bergen. This time our method of transport was ferry. Considered the "queen of the fjords" for being widely considered the second most famous fjord in Norway, Aurlandsfjord is deep, surrounded by waterfalls and glaciers on both sides, the shorelines occasionally hosting a town too small and picturesque for it to even be real.

Looking up the fjord.... Hard to believe this is actually salt water until a pod of dolphins swam past.

A waterfall spills into Aurlandsfjord next to an old dock...

And another waterfall....

An impossibly small town or compound... Can't imagine how lonely this place must get in the winter...

Sheet glass water... A beautiful but cold day...

After de-boarding the ferry, we hopped a bus from another small town and zig-zagged our way through deep canyons, around glaciers and over rivers in the now pouring rain. At one point the switchbacks got so sharp and steep, I thought for sure our bus was going to plow over the edge...

After leaving the bus and boarding another train, we finally arrived in Bergen, competing the Norway in. Nutshell route.

As Norway's second largest city and former capital, Bergen is a big city (for Norway) that retains a lot of small town charm. The most famous attraction in town is probably the Old City, a row of wooden buildings originally built in the 16th century that still stand today.

My luck continued with stumbling into random events and I managed to engorge myself at a food fair going on on the waterfront.

On the hills behind Bergen, there's a natural park that offers great views of the city below once you clear the thick forest. You'd never know you're in a city from up there!

Forest behind Bergen.... And below the view of the city...

The Blog Goes On

Though I have been back in the states for almost a month now from my traveling sabbatical, a couple California road trips and a visit to Philadelphia have kept me still away from home. Between that and a hectic last month of backpacking, the blog has fallen way behind! 

The original intention of writing about my travels online was to keep friends and family updated on my whereabouts, though over time the blog morphed into more of a personal journal and thus, I will finish summarizing my travels and if anyone is still reading, hope you can continue to follow along.

My brother and I in Philly...