Tuesday, September 30, 2014

Cycling Down a Fjord

After arriving in Fläm, I stayed the night in a hostel at a campground and the next day took the Flamsbana railway back to Myrdal, which turned out to be nothing more than a train station and a couple other buildings. From Myrdal I rode a rented mountain bike back down dirt and gravel roads towards Fläm...


Myrdal, a happening town...


The switchbacks next to the waterfall mark the first part of my descent back into Fläm.

Waterfalls were everywhere, cascading the 500-1000 feet from the steep ranges above down to the valley floor.


At the bottom of the deep valley, sharp rock and cliffs have way to a grassy, green floor carved by a glacier millions of years ago.


The human fascination with water is an interesting one... Crowds flock to take pictures of waterfalls no matter what part of the world you're in. I was lucky enough to enjoy these in compete solitude....



The water flowing down was the most aqua-clear I've ever seen. This section was about 10 feet deep!


The 12 mile ride should've taken less than an hour but with all the photo breaks it took more like three...


It was a cold ride so I tucked my hoodie into my helmet and it wouldn't be a blog post without a shameless selfie... Function beats fashion in this 10 second timer selfie...


Norway in a Nutshell

Finally, a blog update! Since my last update I have visited six countries and traveled thousands of miles... Anyway, two things to know about Norway: it's natural beauty is absolutely stunning and it's terribly expensive. Think $10 for a Big Mac expensive...

Leaving Oslo, I made my way to Bergen on the west coast over four days using three trains, a ferry and bus following the "Norway in a Nutshell" route.


A couple photos out the window from my train ride to Myrdal from Oslo.


Once in Myrdal, I switched trains to the Flamsbana Railroad, a 12 mile ride through 18 hand-carved tunnels built in the mid 1800s. Incrdible views of the valley and waterfalls were off both sides of the train as we clung to narrow cliffs on either side of the former fjord.


Two of many waterfalls along the way...

 
At the bottom of the valley, the tiny town of 500, Fläm was my destination for the next two nights. 


The Flamsbana or Fläm Railway train....

 
And above, the view from a small hilltop just next to the town. Behind me is a deep fjord called Sognefjord, one of the longest in Norway.


I don't speak a word of Norwegain nor really enjoy toilet humor but some things are universal....

Monday, September 8, 2014

A Change in Plans

After a day in Copenhagen, I set off the next morning in dumping rain toward Elsinore to continue my ride into Sweden and on to Stockholm. Ten miles into my ride, soaked completely through, shoes sloshing from the water that had collected inside, I had reached my conclusion: the cycle tour was over. I finished the next 20 miles, shivering and miserable till I got to Elsinore, then took a train straight back to Copenhagen.

It was a difficult decision to stop the cycling tour, but after 30 days and over 1,000 miles, I knew I had made the right choice. A flu and rain that seemed to follow me across Europe had dampened my spirits but ultimately, cycling all day, day after day, had lost its fun. It was incredible experience and I'm so glad I got to see Europe in that way but it's time to turn a new leaf! And after arriving in Norway, I was certain I had made the right choice!


Cycling, trains and flying is so passé when you can travel by boat so I booked an overnight cruise to Oslo, Norway to arrive in style.


Above, leaving Copenhagen. Europe is always such an interesting juxtaposition of old and new; a historic, island fortress in the foreground with electric windmills behind... 

And below, entering Norway through the wide Oslo Fjord. There were islands of all sizes dotted with cabins, marinas, and homes... This one was particularly small...


More islands...


The view from the cruise ship's breakfast buffet...


Oslo has a distinctly modern feel compared to some of the other cities I have been in recently. This particular section of town has a cool skyline and is a newer neighborhood of posh bars, restaurants, offices and apartments out on a finger in the harbor.


One of Oslo's more famous attractions is the Vigelandsparken Scultpure Park, which is apparently the largest sculpture park in the world made by a single artist. Perhaps also the world's creepiest sculpture park...


This tower was a 30 foot tall pinnacle of strangeness, surrounded by other twisted sculptures.


The angry baby below is a famous one...


Sans bicycle and with my fanny pack strapped up tight, I'm glad to be back in tourist mode!


Sunday, September 7, 2014

Full Speed Ahead

Realizing I would never make it to Stockholm by my target date, I hopped a train from Antwerp, Belgium to Copenhagen, Denmark with an overnight in Hamburg, Germany. It was all such a blur, I honestly don't even remember Hamburg nor do I have a photo.


A local train with a new hand-drawn paint job...


Bike storage on the train to Copenhagen... 

Copenhagen is known for being one of the trendiest cities in Northern Europe and the most cycle friendly. The side of each road had a dedicated bike path complete with its own traffic signals. At times, cars were outnumbered two to one by cyclists.


A big group waits at a traffic light... It was actually a bit unnerving to cross the street as a pedestrian as you have to remember to look for bikes then cars. 


A beautiful city filled with well-dressed, good-looking people, I found the architecture and culture to have a dark and brooding undertone to them. A little like Gotham from Batman or something...


It was raining till my last morning so
I don't have too many photos...


Below is an entrance to Tivoli, one of Europe's best known theme parks.


And the grave of Hans Christian Andersen, creator of many famous fairy tales such as "The Little Mermaid", "The Ugly Duckling" and "The Emporer's New Clothes." I actually didn't know he was until I randomly heard a podcast about him a week prior. Strange dude...


A couple of nice canals... The bright, sunny morning in these photos doesn't really back up my point of a dark, gothic city...


And a small port...


I was ready for high prices in Scandanavia but was still sticker shocked to pay $15 USD for a beer and $12 for a soft serve ice cream! No cheaper future in sight as I head further north!

Biking Beer Country

Hands down, Belgians have been the most helpful and nicest people I have met so far on my trip, and I've seen many very generous cultures. If you're confused and looking at a map on the street, inevitably somebody stops to help you, often in perfect English. This was how I met my roommate in Gent. After helping point me in the right direction toward the city center and chatting a bit, I soon had an offer to stay with one of best hosts I could've imagined. After a brief tour around the city and a beer at a microbrewery, we met up with some of his friends for dinner and sampling many local beers back at the house. One of the most fun nights I've had since leaving home.


Gent tends to be overshadowed by Bruge and Brussels but definitely holds its own in being a magnificent city.


The old castle in Gent's city center.


Churches, towers and cathedrals along the main canal gave it a fairy tale like quality.

After a night in Gent, I cycled off into the countryside to check out the many famous breweries Belgium has to offer. Unlike home, where breweries offer tours at set times every day and have tasting rooms, getting into a Belgian brewery is typically by appointment only but I figured I'd try my luck anyway.


My first stop was Delirium, which was closed but nonetheless it was cool to see the factory in person. That pink elephant is probably one of the most famous logos in all of beer.

Down the street was a barber shop/bar where I figured I'd drink a Delirium in the spirt of being so close, and came to learn the barbershop was actually it's own brewery!


After a couple beers with the local police chief, I ended up with a haircut and a light buzz for my afternoon ride...


En route to Affligem, the next brewery on my route, I met a local, elderly man cycling the same direction as me, who ended up riding with me to the brewery and explaining my situation to the lone employee, who promptly offered me two free beers but couldn't give a tour. Pretty awesome of both of them!

To get around Belgium's many bike paths, you follow a hub system rather than a route. For example, if you want to get from Gent to Wetteren, you'd cycle from 97 to 12 to 22 to 66 to 34 using the map below.


Signs like the one below point the way. It was a bit confusing at times but for the most part highly efficient.


At one point, the path crossed a river where there was no bridge so this ferry was there to shuttle cyclists the 50 feet across free of charge.


Toward the end of the day, I arrived at Palm Brewery, surely one of Belgium's best known breweries and sampled the fare at their associated restaurant.


Delicious!

I arrived in Antwerp as it was getting dark and, of course, in the rain so I managed to take zero photos before moving on the next next day...

Wednesday, September 3, 2014

Bridges on the Loire and it's Tributaries

The bridges over the Loire are actually pretty few and far between. Here they are without captions, just photos...