A la Costa por Autobus

After hoping for an easy bus ride to the coast, I have to say I learned a lot about Ecuador's public transit. At the dirty and chaotic private Reina del Camino company station, I boarded a newer looking bus after getting charged the outrageous gringo price (by Ecuador standards) of $5 extra to have my surfboard carelessly thrown in with the rest of the luggage. We catipulted out of the city on winding roads at breakneck speed and I spent the first two hours convincing myself I wouldn't throw up until at least three hours in- fortunately I never did. We arrived in Bahia de Caracuez after two very quick drop-offs along the way a little after 5 am- a 7.5 hour bus trip in total. Knowing that no hostel, restaurant or any business I wanted part of would be open in the pitch dark, I sat on a bench with a few locals until 7:15 before venturing into the city. Two valuable lessons learned: 1) make sure to pee before getting on the bus; while they have a bathroom, ours was locked the entire trip and 2) don't ever expect to get in at the scheduled time; early or late - have some sort of plan in case this happens.

Bahia de Caracuez is a former port town bordered by water on three sides where the Chone River meets the Pacific. Tall white apartment buildings filled with expat gringos line the shore, while dilapidated, rickety wood and concrete shacks climb up the hill behind them. Many expats frequent our hostel's cafe for breakfast, beer and socialization. While the cost of living is ridiculously cheap, buying or renting a nice place in Bahia, as the locals call it, not. Why anyone would retire here is beyond me.

A hill on the only land side of town had a 40 foot cross you can climb up from where I shot the previous photo.

After no sleep last night, today was a lazy day, but I did manage to try salchipapas, a local street food consisting of French fries topped with thin cut sausage- yes, it was not very exotic. I also added a burger with fried egg on top and a 22 oz beer for $3.50 total.

Tomorrow, I'll head to the surf town of Canoa as there is really nothing to do in Bahia besides legally drink beer in the street.

So Long, Quito

Every Sunday, the city shuts down one of the main through fares, Avenida Amazonas, so that thousands of locals can hop on their bikes and enjoy the normally traffic-clogged city. I stumbled upon this awesome event while walking back from the bus station and decided to join in! The entrance to Parque Elijido with the arch in the background welcomed bicyclists to an open air market, live music, and an enormous metropolitan park.

One of the performing groups in the park was this rad family trio that gathered crowds by playing traditional music... And Taylor Swift covers!

A welcome relief from un-smogged busses and crazy taxi drivers...

The local dog show... I have no idea what this guy was doing but the local kids sure liked it.

Last night, a friend from the hostel and I also managed to discover the only microbrewery in Quito, Bandido Brewing. Not a single local we asked for directions had heard of it as we wandered around in the rain. Decent beer (not quite Ballast Point!) and fellow Americans greeted us inside as we welcomed anything but Brahma; the watery, Ecuadorian national beer that by comparison makes Miller Lite truly the "champagne of beer."

Tonight, I leave for the coast via a 9 hour bus ride that gets us in around 7:15 am. Can't say I'm too excited about the arduous journey ahead, but excited to get out of the bustling city and down to some pristine surf. Crossing my fingers the next update will be nothing but a positive review of Ecuador's public transit system!

Latitude 0°00'00.0"

"I'm on the middle of the world!" This morning I straddled the line between the Northern and Southern Hemisphere at the equator just outside of Quito. 

You actually weigh slightly less at the equator than anywhere else in the world so I was feeling quite fit!

Latitude 0°, the exact GPS location of the equator.

Entering "La Mitad del Mundo" park. The cab ride here was a little less than one hour each way and cost $10. Looks like Uber won't be coming to Ecuador any time soon!

I also visited the Basilica in the Centro Historico, which is visible from our hostel from across the valley.

This is the largest church in Ecuador and towers over the surrounding buildings, though it gives an idea of the Gothic architecture that many of the other buildings around "Old Town" share.

Quito, Ecuador

Today is my second full day in Quito. At an altitude of over 9,000 feet, Quito is the second highest capital city in South America. The city stretches along a valley in a giant urban sprawl with many hills, winding, narrow streets and steep staircases flanked by magnificent colonial churches and intricately decorated pastel colored buildings. 

On one side of the valley a gondola, called El TeleFerico, takes you to the city's best vantage point at over 12,000 feet above sea level. These photos don't do it justice.

Behind the peak there is a lone church back-dropped by a dormant volcano, Rucu Pichincha.

It's been a good few first days on the road. 

Packed and Ready for Departure

Two backpacks and a surfboard! What more could the wayward traveler need!?  

Sleeping on the floor of the Vegas airport tonight.. Small price to pay for a free flight

Packing List

4 days till departure! Hard to believe this is all I will need for the next 6 months